Post script.

Gene and I thought our excellent adventure was over when we left New Delhi.

Well, it was far from over. We arrived in Chicago, anxious to be on the last leg of our journey. Looking forward to seeing loved ones. We got through customs, with baggage in tow we headed towards the monitor to see which gate our departing flight would be. Only to find out it had been cancelled due to bad weather in OKC.

The prospect of another night in a hotel room and no guarantee of leaving Chicago next day. I suggested to Gene we could drive to OKC. We didn't want to lug or very large four suitcases and hand baggage to the room, only to have to do it again the next day. Having to go through the tedious process of checking into O'hare airport. The twelve hour drive seemed tame in comparison.

Gene agreed with me and were off looking for a car to rent. What followed was a comedy of errors. Neither one of us had a working cell phone. We checked with Budget, but they were out of cars. We headed back to the terminal, baggage in tow. I was able to secure a car with Avis. We got to the counter and then I realized , I didn't have my driver's license with me. Since I was going to do the bulk of the driving, we both felt daunted. But, we decided, I would drive anyway and take our chances. I will have to be very careful and not speed! Which is very tough for me!

We called Leslie and Reina to let them know the flight had been cancelled and that we were driving home. Only to find out a blizzard was heading to OK. Okay, I thought what else can go wrong?! Both Reina and Leslie were concerned for our safety. But, I think Reina knows I would be fine driving. Leslie, on the other hand had reason to be concerned. She really does not know my driving history.

Anyhow, we were on our way. I thought I was mad for doing this. I had had some sleep on the plane, but, in all honesty I was driving with a deficit in the sleep department.

About two hours into the drive, I began to get sleepy. Gene was taking a nap, the night sky was upon us. I thought break was in order and then decide how much further I could go. Since we didn't have cell phones, we had to look for places with pay phones. Not an easy task! We were able to put our calls on the credit card and talk with the two daughters. Letting them know we were fine and that we would go on until we can or if bad weather stops us. I assured Leslie, I would be a responsible driver.

As I was driving, I thought my ability to stay up late was definitely coming in handy. And, My love of driving long distances was also very helpful for a twelve hour journey.

Gene and I also remarked about all the different flights we had taken in India. Not one was delayed, late or cancelled. Amazing how in this country air travel is now a headache. Whereas in India, it was such a joy. We were on eight different flights during our time in India. Every single flight there was pleasant. All the crew members were courteous and helpful. Everyone on the flight got good food to eat, not just first class passengers. And, then we land in Chicago and our flight is cancelled with no good reason. The staff was less than helpful. We had to fend for ourselves. Not pleasant.

Well, after driving for about six hours, I decided I would drive all the way home. There was no point in stopping on the way. So, we pressed on. Gene is not a talker, but he did do well in keeping me awake. We stopped every couple of hours, stretched our legs ate horrible snack foods, drank coke and coffee. Oh,  how I missed all those great Indian dishes of the past month!

We made it to OKC at 6:30 a.m. Exactly twelve hours later, and I didn't speed at all! There was very little snow on the ground, I got us home, Gene was kind enough to bring my suitcases in . We hugged goodbye. He went to his house and I went to sleep.

And, so ended our excellent adventure!

A full circle.

I am sitting at the London airport. It seemed fitting to add one last entry. It has come a full circle. I started my journey on the blog for the trip to India at this airport. Gene had remarked that our trip had a beginning and now we have come full circle to the end. Like reincarnation!

It's hard to put into words what the last month has meant to me. I think for Gene it has been the realization of a long wish fulfilled. He had always wanted to visit India. He has commented several times what a joy this journey has been. Yes, we could have gone to many other places, I had to pick and choose the sites we would see. No matter how long one spends in India, it's never enough!

Kudos to LaVeryl, our travel agent, she did such a remarkable job of putting this trip together. Everything flowed effortlessly. At every city we were met with people who took care of all of our needs.

I think for me, writing about the trip makes me feel as though I am still traveling. As if I am still in India, being amazed and upset by what I see. A country of contradiction. After I have had time to process this epic journey, I am going to go back and add more to the blog. Things I didn't have time for while we were moving from city to city.
Until then,
Sunita.

Homeward bound!

Hello Everyone!

This will be my last entry from India. We are homeward bound! Both of us are a bit sad, and also looking forward to coming home and seeing loved ones. What an amazing journey this has been. For me, seeing the country of my origin for an entire month has been such a gift. And, for Gene it has been an interesting, engrossing and novel experience.

Gene has done well eating Indian food on more occasions than not. He has been adventurous for sure. We have done well with each other, we have given each other space for quiet time and had interesting conversations. He has come to the conclusion that I come from a family of talkers. He is amazed that I talk to both my children for hours on end, as well as family members and friends. He thinks saying what's on his mind and then getting off the phone is the best way to go.

Well, we left Agra at 9a.m bidding the Taj a fond farewell, and were in Delhi by 3p.m. a quick visit to the saree store of a family friend was in order, and then to our hotel by the airport. I always enjoy Delhi, it's like coming home.

This has been an incredible journey. How often does one get the opportunity to travel in India for a month?! I am so grateful to Gene for having given me this generous gift. This country has changed for the better, since I was here twelve years ago. And, yet a lot more lies ahead. I hope that by reading this blog you were able to learn more about this country, which is a constant contradiction in terms.

Tonight we will catch at the plane at 3a.m. and be home by 8 p.m. OK time. I have enjoyed updating my blog, something I have looked forward to. I hope all of you have enjoyed my musings.

Sunita.

Taj by sunrise!

Okay, so I got up early to view the Taj by sunrise. Was it worth it? Yes, it was! I am glad I forced myself to do this. The sun hitting the Taj in the morning, so many different hues were visible. The light changes the mood of this monument. Gene thought it was awe inspiring, incredible, magical and impressive. Tagore a Hindu poet said of the Taj, "It's an eternal teardrop on the cheek of time". So beautiful.

I think Gene has enjoyed his trip. Everyday he has written his thoughts in a journal. I think he has already completed one book. No doubt this will be a great read in a few months time. Last night over dinner we were both sad that this journey is coming to an end. We have seen so many faces of India, it's hard to pick a favorite city or area or experience.

After seeing the Taj by sunrise, by the way I have pictures of the morning sun --just to prove I was there! We came back to the hotel and had our breakfast on the balcony facing the Taj. Too surreal!After breakfast we went to Agra Fort which is very similar to the Red Fort in Delhi. We also saw the mini Taj, which was the inspiration for the Taj Mahal.

Tonight we saw a play about the love story behind the Taj Mahal. It was built to house the body of Mumtaz, the queen of Shah Jhan the emperor of India. It took twenty two years to build. The white marble was inlaid by local artisans with semi precious stones. No matter how many times I see the Taj, I am always swept away by the romance of the place. Did the emperor really build it because he was so grief stricken. Or, was it a monument to stroke his ego? One will not know. However, I like the romantic version better. Each person who is in love needs to come to this place.

The rest of Agra is hard to take, it is messy and dirty. It is the most disorganized city we were in. Traffic here was difficult to take. The pollution here was much worse. I don't understand why this one city has not improved?  It's hard to see the Taj in a surrounding that does not suit it. The government makes a lot of money from this monument, I wish they would spend it fixing up the city, and helping the citizens of Agra. 

There have been threats against the Taj Mahal, so security is very tight. The Taj is not lit up at night because they are afraid of an aerial attack. The times we live in... Though, I am pleased to see better security, not so pleased when people don't pay attention to simple instructions. I was shaking my head as I was waiting in line to get through security. Two young European men were being detained because they had back packs filled with chewing gum, food, clothes, phones and battery packs. None of which are allowed into the compound where the Taj is located. As I waited, I wondered why they had not paid attention to the large signs describing contra band items? They were being rather indignant as the guards were searching them. Wonder what would happen to them if they behaved in a similar fashion at the security gate for the White House in D.C.? 

Well, this excellent adventure is coming to it's end. My last entry from India will be tomorrow. We head back to Delhi and then onto London, then Chicago, then home. I am not ready to leave India. All the wonderful food, people and sounds, aromas of this place will haunt me until I return.

The Taj Mahal!

Hello from Agra,We left Jaipur this morning and were in Agra by tea time. We did stop on the way to see a city built by Akbar a Mughal emperor. It's called Fatepur Sikri. The city was abandoned and remarkably is in very good condition some 400 hundred years or so later.

We went to see the Taj Mahal by sunset. It's an amazing structure by any light. Have I used the word beautiful before?! Well, this is beautiful and then some. I have seen the Taj a couple of times. No matter how many times one is here, the words incredible, beautiful come to mind. Everytime I see it, I just want to sit and stare at it. It feels so surreal. As you enter the gate, you are struck by the majesty of the Taj. The Taj is not visible in it's entirety until you pass through the gate. It's amazing the amount of detail afforded this massive flawless building. 

Tomorrow we will be up early to see the Taj by sunrise. I have come to the conclusion that I just need to accept the morning hours as my friends. A bit late in the game, since we will be home this weekend! 

Yesterday, while Gene and I were coming back to our hotel in the evening, I remarked, that no city in India sleeps at night. He very quietly quipped , "they have no room, they all have to take turns sleeping"! I thought I would share with you his sense of humor. It was so funny, I am still laughing about it.We are both feeling sad that the end of the journey is so near. Though, the thought of seeing our loved ones is tempering the sadness we feel.

More tomorrow.
Sunita.

Enchanting Jaipur!

Hello Everyone,

I am feeling much better today. I left the hotel with a can of Coke with me. So I could avoid a caffeine headache later in the afternoon. We are staying at the fabulous Rambagh Palace hotel. This was the hunting lodge of the last king of Jaipur.  Some hunting lodge! The Taj hotel group took over the palace and made it into an amazing luxury hotel. Every detail is attended to. Every city we have stayed in, we have enjoyed the local flavor. Jaipur certainly has charm. It's a city of artisans. Some of the most unique gem stones are mined right here in Jaipur. This is the city to come to if you are interested in buying unusual jewelry. 

We were up early again today because the Palace we were going to see looks best in the morning light. After breakfast we were picked up by our guide and were on our way.  First we went to see Hawa Mahal, which means the wind palace. This was built for the ladies of court, so they could view street life from behind the palace walls and not be seen by the locals! We then went up to Amber Fort which is built on top of a hill on elephant back. My greatest concern was how the elephants are treated. I am not one for making animals doing our bidding. My heart aches for the elephants separated from their core family group just so tourists can go to the top of the hill.

I really didn't want to ride the elephant. At the same time I knew this was something Gene had been looking forward to. I put aside my feelings of apprehension and sat on the elephants back. I will never do that again. I don't think they enjoy going up and down the hill. And I know I added to their burden. The ride was uncomfortable and I was glad to be done. The Fort was spectacular. It is a massive complex. One area had mirrors imported from Murano, Italy. It was an entire structure embellished in mirrors. Truly remarkable.

After that we were back at the hotel. I thought it was time for high tea, so I invited Gene. We sat on the perfectly manicured grounds of the palace and enjoyed English Breakfast tea, cucumber sandwiches and scones. We discussed our day and both agreed that the elephant ride was not comfortable.

Then, it was time to go to a remote farm for an exclusive dinner. The family who owns this 300 acre estate decided to invite small parties of guests for private dinners. This evening Gene and I were the only guests. Talk about amazing service! The surroundings were serene and very pleasant. The name of this hamlet is Dera Amer. If you are interested in more information about this check out deraamer.com. This ranch is located at the foothills of a mountain range that is older than the Himalayas. Our host was charming!

Tomorrow we leave for Agra by car. We are looking forward to a different mode of transportation.I for one enjoy the car far more than airplanes. Though, it won't be the same as me driving from Oklahoma to Alaska! I think having the image of the Taj Mahal as our final destination is apt. Though, each area we have been to has had it's own special charm.
More from Agra!

Jaipur.

Greetings from the most beautiful city in India... I think so anyway. The city was planned on a grid system. The king believed in Feng Shui and built the city accordingly. So, no wonder I like it. The hotel we are staying in was the hunting palace of the last Maharaja of Jaipur. It's the palace hotel. I think I have used the word beautiful so many times it's overused. But truly there is no other way to describe this magnificent place.

Soon after we left Mumbai we landed in Jaipur after checking in we went on a tour of one of the many palaces this city has. I have been supporting a headache for the entire day, so this entry will be brief. I am sure it's a combination of not sleeping well last night in anticipation of leaving Mumbai. Gene and I both enjoyed our stay in Mumbai and could have easily stayed there a few more days.

Tomorrow we will start off early and see the Hawa Mahal, meaning the wind palace. It's best seen early in the morning. So, off to bed for me. I will write more tomorrow.

Goodbye Mumbai.

Well, our stay in Mumbai is over. Tomorrow we leave for Jaipur, the pink city. So named because it's made out of pink sandstone. I have never been to Jaipur, so I am anxious to see this fabled city of the Maharajas of India.

I will miss the hustle, bustle of Mumbai. I shopped with my family friend this afternoon and then sat down for a long lingering lunch. We caught up on 35 years of absence. It's always great to reconnect with long lost friends.

Soon this excellent adventure will come to a close, I will miss India. I have enjoyed eating great vegetarian dishes for every meal. How will I ever adjust to eating Oklahoma cuisine?!

I will post my entry from Jaipur tomorrow.
Sunita.

Mumbai continued...

Today, we had a tour of the city. Saw the University of Bombay. We went to traffic school for children. I remember doing that. It wasn't until I saw the traffic school that I remembered going to such a school. It was set in the park. A minature street scape, complete with traffic lights, zebra crossings, left turn lanes and all the road signs. Even a roundabout! As a child I learnt how to pretend drive in traffic school. No wonder I grew up-- to love driving! Funny, how I had forgotten traffic school. I was so happy to see this part of my childhood return to me.

After that we saw a museum devoted to Gandhi. It's a house that he would stay at when he visited Mumbai. A room was set up where his spinning wheel is kept. He learnt how to spin yarn in this house. After that we saw a museum where antiquities are kept. Miniature paintings and large pottery pieces found from the period of the Indus civilization. Impressive.Then we saw the dobi ghat, where laundry services are provided for many in the city. It was interesting to see how men wash clothes! None of the washers were women. Now if only we could get men in America to wash the laundry for us!

The name Mumbai comes from the name of the goddess, Mumba who the fishermen worshipped. It was known as Mumba which became Mumbai, but the name was changed when Portugal invaded to Bombai, and then the Brits changed it to Bombay. Bombay was given by Portugal to England as part of the dowery for the marriage between the queen of Portugal and King of England, interesting history I had no knowledge of.Tomorrow Gene is determined to see the slums of Mumbai, needless to say I am not going. I hope to connect with a family friend. He will go with the car and driver.

After the tour of the city, Gene went to his room to read, while I went out for a stroll. The Taj hotel is on the waterfront. It faces the Arabian Sea. It's directly across from India Gate. People come to this part of the city to walk by the harbour. Perfect opportunity for me to people watch. Anytime I am in Vancouver visiting my family, I want to go to little India and just stare at Indians, much to the dismay of my family members. But, here I can stare all I want, because all the Indian people stare at me. I am just as much a novelty for them as they are for me.

This afternoon, I saw families out for an afternoon stroll. Fathers holding their children, walking and showing them the boats in the harbour, while the mothers walk along. Young couples walking hand in hand. Older couples also holding hands. Everyone smiling. These are the images of India no one sees. There is contentment on the faces of people I saw. I have been so heartwarmed by my visit here. On the other hand there are areas of concern for me also. The economic issues facing so many people. The trash that people throw with no regard for their enviornment. The pollution, though better than before is still an issue.
Tomorrow will be a day of rest for me and visiting a long lost friend.
Until then.
Sunita.

Bollywood!

Hello from the financial capital of India. Mumbai (formely Bombay) is a very busy city. It consists of 7 islands. The city is vibrant and oh so busy. Just like any large city in the west. It took us over an hour and a half just to get to our hotel from the airport. The security at the hotel is so intense. We are staying at the Taj, the hotel which was one of the targets of the terroists in November. Though, it looks like business as usual. Gene and I both feel a certain tension in the air. After the relaxed time in Goa, I feel a bit like a fish out of water. I don't feel as fast as all of the Mumbaians. Our rooms over look the harbour of the Arabian ocean. Such a spectacular view.

We were up early this a.m. like 5! In my head I was still asleep. While we were sitting in the lounge at the airport, I actually fell asleep. Gene tried to wake me up gently, but I jumped up as if I had missed the connection. Poor Gene was startled by my reaction. No more naps for me from now on. As soon as we landed we left our luggage at the hotel and went to see the Elephanta caves. The temple carved here was out of one mountain. It is dedicated to Shivji the God of creation and destruction. The carvings are so expressive. Hard to imagine how such a monumental task was accomplished in 6 A.D. All of it was done with rudimentary tools.

Gene and I had a spirited conversation about the movie 'Slumdog millionaire" I have opted not to see it and he can't understand my reason not to see it. In th next coulple of days, he will go and see the slums of Mumbai, I think I will visit a family friend I have not seen since 1972.

Well, the feel of Mumbai is so different. It will take me a while to process. It sure is not the Mumbai I last saw in 1972. So much progress has taken place and yet so much more has yet to be accomplished. My hope is that this country will find it's way to a better life for all of it's citizens.

Tomorrow we go to see the tour of the city. I will write more then.

Until then,

Sunita.

The three R's, rest ,relax, rejuvenate!

I feel so much better after an entire day of being a beach bum. I do believe I am darker than my daughter..so take that Reina!

Yesterday and today, I was actually up early and ready to go. Just goes to show, I can be motivated by the beach. I did coax Gene to the beach finally today. Yesterday he spent time reading reports on banks?! I don't get that at all.

Goa is so laid back, it's amazing. The Arabian sea is so warm. I rarely jump right into the ocean, I take painfully slow steps into the ocean,but here the water is so warm. It took no time at all for me to swim like a fish. It's like stepping into a warm bath, with salted water. I had fun today. I spent time thinking about both my children. I fought the waves as Mahesh used to when he was young. And, I swam like a fish as Reina used to. Also, another ritual, Reina and I partake in, tan, tan, tan, swim, swim, swim! That's all one needs to do at the beach. Goa has miles and miles of powder sand beaches. Not polluted at all. I would really like to bring both my children to India. Goa would definitely be a required stop.

Gene and I spent our usual time contemplating our different views on humanity. Then we took a long walk on the beach. Walking on sand and the water lapping up to our feet, stopping every so often to observe sea creatures. Great afternoon!

Tomorrow we leave for Mumbai, I am not sure if my state of being is ready to see what lies ahead. We leave early in the morning. I will write more later.

Incredible Goa!

I am in love with Goa. And, Gene is impressed too. This is an impeccable resort. My desire to rest and rejuvenate the spirit is on the money. Tomorrow we do go to Shakahari spice farm. This is an organic farm. We will see how all the spices that are used in Indian cooking are grown. A vegetarian lunch will be served after the tour of the farm. After that we will go to see some local churches. Goa's influence is from Portugal. Their influence is apparent in the buildings and even the features of people.

After the sight seeing I am heading to the beach!After we got here today, I strolled the serene white sand beaches. To watch a sunset over the ocean is remarkable. Truly one of those rare occasions for us Oklahomans!

After my sunset stroll, I met Gene for dinner. We ate outside listening to the waves gently rolling in on the beach and the palm trees swaying in the breeze. Now who would not want to have a perfect day like today?
More tomorrow.
Sunita.

Mahabalipuram.

This is our last day in Chennai. We went to Mahabalipuram. This is a beach town, on the eastern coast of India. The ocean it faces is the Bay of Bengal. I remember this town clearly from my earlier travels. The town has improved with time. It is still the hub of artisans. The students of sculpture attend a school for 5-7 years learning their craft from masters and then a group open a store together. I like to patronize places like these. This way the artisan is the recipient of monetary gains rather than a shop keeper. I wasa glad to see that this place has improved with time. Granted it's busier than I remember it. Many more tourists. Along with the tourist dollar, improvements have been made. The historical sights are well manicured and trash is kept to a minimum.

We saw cave carvings done in 3 B.C. The progression of cave reliefs and the building process was clearly demonstrated in temples. Most of these are not and were not meant to be living temples. Temples must face east for them to be a living temple. Most of these faced west. They were 'practice temples'. The artisans were perfecting their craft. Tough way to practice..in granite! Another reason these beautiful monuments still remain is because they were not living temples. There was nothing for looters to steal.

Another thing I noticed in Mahabalipuram was the number of families out for a day at the beach. Too often the images we see of India are so negative. Today and on many other days, I have seen families spending time together, laughing and enjoying each other's company--positive images. We saw so many school children out for a day excursion, all well dressed and being playful. The guide and I both agreed, more people need to see a balanced picture of this incredible country.

After the ride back to Chennai, we went to visit a museum where we saw one third of the collection of bronzes of Shivji and Parvatiji. There was also a serene looking bronze of Buddha.This was a wonderful day. As an artist I appreciate hand made work. I will always come back to Mahabalipuram. Gene too enjoyed this excursion. He is getting very good at remembering all the stories of the Pantheon of Gods. He'll be able to give a talk on Hinduism better than me.

Tomorrow we go to Goa, it's on the west coast of India. Rest and relaxation are in order. I plan to tan, tan, tan. Swim, swim, swim. I have no idea what Gene will do?!

I am looking forward to the beach.

Sunita.

Kanchipuram.

Today we were off to Kanchipuram. It took about an hour and half to get there. On the way we stopped at a small village. It was weird to see the village nestled in the middle of large manufacturing plants. South India is a haven for companies like Nokia, Hyundai, IBM and so on. We saw large busses with the Nokia logo filled with people, they were workers being transported from home to work.

The village life is fast disappearing in India. Going are the huts with thatched roofs made out of palm leaves. The village we saw did have little houses with the Palm leaf roofs. Very simple. One room houses. In the middle of the village was a fire pit where the meals are cooked. Another hut was for the animals, mostly goats. There was also a calf, the mother was grazing in a field nearby.

We got to Kanchipuram to see the oldest temple in this town. A large complex, pretty impressive. After that we went to another smaller temple which is now more like a museum rather than a living temple. A living temple is where people pray. This temple did have frescos painted on the carvings.

Then we stopped for lunch, its' so great to be able to have so many veggie choices. Gene does have a tough time with the spice level of the food. The food in the roadside cafe tastes authentic. Unlike a lot of the food served in the hotel restaurants. The hotels cater for non Indians.

We also went to a weaving cottage farm. Kanchipuram is famous for it's hand woven silk. Beautiful sarees, scarves, wall hangings, table runners etc. are available. The weaving process is fascinating for me. I have made a few things on my loom.

Well, tomorrow we will be going to Mahabalipuram, a town which I visited over ten years ago. I am anxious to see what it looks like now. I remember how the whole town was filled with artisans creating sculptures out of stone. Ancient art being practiced today.
Until then,
Sunita.

Chennai.

We left Kolkata this afternoon and couple of hours later were in Chennai (formerly Madras). The south of India is so much calmer than Kolkata. Both Gene and I agree, if anyone asked for our recommendation, we would suggest coming to the south of India.We have a charming guide, the first woman. We were both very happy to see that. As Gene puts it, he is a feminist. I am glad he is or, we would have serious issues!

As always Gene wants to hit the ground running, luckily we had eaten lunch on the plane and I had had my dose of caffeine (coke of course). After checking in we were off to see the city. All of it was built by the Brits. It was their first strong hold, then Kolkata and finally Delhi. We saw an Anglican church, then a Roman Catholic church where they believe the Apostle Thomas is buried. After that we went to see a Hindu temple.

This evening I heard something I had not heard since I got to India... ambulance sirens! It was so strange to hear that, since for the past two weeks that sound has been missing. I think in all of the cities we have been an ambulance cannot manuver through the traffic. So, I have no idea what people do if they are hurt? Here in Chennai, traffic is a bit more moderate. Even though people do not stay in their lanes. As I have observed, lane markings are decoration for the road in India!

Tomorrow we will see Kanchipuram, more temples (yeah!) Even I am going to be templed out! The day after that we go to Mahabalipuram, a small town filled with artisans, I am so anxious to see that.

Kolkata,continued.

Our day was spent driving through different towns and villages. There were banana farms. Lots of steel plants. We saw a Catholic church in the middle of a town. A strange sight to see. As I was walking towards the church, I noticed a man with a street cart. He was selling 'gol guppai' as a child, my sister and I would stop and eat gol guppai once a week. These are wafer balls that are filled with spicey tamarind water. The trick is to put the whole gol guppa in your mouth without it breaking. A trick most Indian children master when quite young. I just stood there looking at people stopping and buying the gol guppai from the vendor. My mouth watering. It's not something I could venture to taste. The tamarind water would not be safe to ingest. I had to live vicariously through the people eating them. And, then I moved on. I do get to eat gol guppai when I visit my sisters and brother in Vancouver, so I am not really suffering. Watching the vendor brought back so many memories of my childhood. We lived in India for a short while.

Back in India!

Hello from Kolkata,

We touched down this morning in Kolkata. From the air I felt like I was coming home. Hard to explain.Today is the festival of Holi. People throw coloured water or powder at each other. I love playing Holi. As a child it was my favorite festival. No, doubt it began as a harvest festival. Today it's a national holiday. When we arrived the streets were calm, everyone is at home playing and having fun. Indians have so many holidays and they are all centered around the family unit. Pretty cool! We didn't get to play Holi, even though we bought the powder and a squirt gun. My fingers were itching to get someone wet with the coloured water. But, I thought better of it, we still had a lot of sightseeing to do.

It was hard to leave Bhutan. I would like to go back one day. I am not sure if my pocket book can handle it or not. Yesterday the lunch I ordered cost $31.00. Please keep in mind, I am a vegetarian. I ordered a tomato and cheese sandwich, chips and a coke. If I had put it on my credit card, there would have been an additional charge of 9%. Everything is expensive in Bhutan!

The hotel we are staying at is just beautiful. We have already had two meals here. My stomach is very happy having Indian food again.

In the afternoon we went for a tour of the city. Since Kolkata was the seat of the British rule for so long, there are a lot of buildings that were built to remind the British what they left behind. We like the guide very much. He's very knowledgeable. He thinks my facial features remind him of the Goddess Durga, she is the Warrior Goddess, I thought that was something to write home about! We drove past the holy river Ganga, even here she looks beautiful. We then went to see the mission run by Mother Teresa, Gene enjoyed seeing that. For me it's tough to see Hindus converting to a different religion. I feel one can help their own kind without having to abandon their entire belief system.

More as the journey unfolds.

Commune with nature.

Okay, so this is how my day has gone today... slept in. Got dressed in a leisurely manner. Ate breakfast at a much slower pace. Went back to my room, sat and stared out the window at Paro nestled in the valley below. Then decided to go for a walk and commune with nature. I saw many beautiful river stones who wanted to go home with me to Oklahoma. They asked me to take them. But I told them they were much better off in Bhutan. So, instead I made a pebble tower sculpture and took a picture of it. I am a recovering "Rockoholic" I have collected rocks from every corner of the world, until one day I realized the rocks wanted to stay in their homeland. I had to refrain from transporting them to Oklahoma. Now, I allow myself to take a picture of a rock and leave it at that!

After my rock sculpture was completed, I sat among tall pine trees swaying gently in the breeze. Breathing in cool crisp mountain air, long deep breaths. It was good to be still and nurture my spirit within.

The Bhutanese people are kind and generous. They are amazed I can speak Hindi, we have had long discussions about religion and just being still and being one with nature. The staff here is also surprised that I am the only hotel guest who has not gone into town. When I told them I needed time to contemplate and meditate, they had a knowing smile on their faces. They seemed to approve of my choice.

Gene, left early this morning to visit another city in Bhutan, named Timphu. He will see young Bhutanese students crate objects of art... I am sure he and the guide will have a wonderful day. My day so far has been picture perfect!

We are off to Kolkata (Calcutta) tomorrow, another early wake up call. I wonder if I will ever get used to this? I think I stay up too late and then have a tough time getting up early. So, perhaps tonight I need to hit the pillow earlier.

No doubt the ten million people in Kolkata will make us wish for the calm of Bhutan!
More later.
Sunita.

Beautiful Bhutan!

We are in Bhutan. This is so different than any other place we have visited so far. It's charming. The weather is cooler. It's feels similar to Colorado. The mountain streams and brooks are pristine. The country is so clean and there is no traffic. We are in Paro, it's not the capital of Bhutan, it's the only place where they can land an airplane! and landing that airplane was difficult since we had to weave in and out of mountains. We did fly by the Himalays and again the sky was clear and they truly are magnificient.

We left Kathmandu this morning, Gene remarked he was happy to be leaving, the feeling of unrest among the citizens is evident. After we landed we checked into our hotel. Gene was ready to start the sightseeing. Myself, I wanted to rest and enjoy the calm surroundings we found ourselves in. I decided soon I will take a day of rest. So, we went to see a Dzong, it's monastery. It's perched high on a mountain. Almost everything is perched high on a mountain. We then went to visit a working farm, the family of the farm made butter tea for us. Yes, it was tea made with a lot of butter. I could not finish the tea, however Gene drank most of his cup...yikes, I thought! We also saw downtown Paro, which is just one street long, really charming! I was surprised to find that people here speak Hindi. The Bhutanese have a close relationship with India. India has the professional work force that Bhutan lacks, such as architects and engineers. And for India, Bhutan sells it's hydro power to the Indians.

It took only an hour to get to Paro. We are staying a charming hotel which overlooks the town of Paro. The surroundings are very peaceful and calm. Tomorrow, I have decided I am staying behind to refresh my spirit. Be one with the trees. I intend to meditate and go for walks and sleep in! Gene thinks I am going to spend my life sleeping away...I do have really vivid dreams, so I think I am getting something accomplished!

Gene could not understand my desire to stop and smell the roses. He feels we have traveled a long way to just sit and meditate. For me the pace has been hectic and I really need some down time. And if, you could see the surroundings of this hotel you would understand my wish for rest and relaxation. I will be sitting in a grove of trees looking at mountain ranges all around me. Breathing in cool, crisp, fresh air and renewing my sense of being after all the sadness witnessed in Nepal. Gene, on the other hand is not going to rest, instead he is going to see the capital of Bhutan, Timpthu. The journey will be long and then he will see where artists learn their craft and also see a Buddhist stupah. He will visit a handicrafts emporium among other things. I do wish I could do both, rest and see Timpthu. But, since we only have one more day here and the day after that we are off to Kolkota (Calcutta) at the crack of dawn again. My body is demanding a more laid back approach.

To me it seems Bhutan has a government that cares about it's people. I first heard about Bhutan a few years ago when 60 Minutes did a feature on this tiny country. The kings of this country have studied abroad and are well educated. This country believes in the gross national happiness of it's people. People do lead simple lives a lot of the population lives in the hill side. They manage their lives bartering with their neighbours. They live in the high mountains with their Yaks. I would really like to see a Yak!
I will write more tomorrow after my day of rest.
Sunita.

Au-revoir Kathmandu!

Greetings,
Our stay in Kathmandu is now over. I feel disheartned. This country has so many challenges ahead. The roads here are non exsistent, there is dust everywhere and the water quality for the citizens is very questionable. The people of Nepal are very endearing. They are very gentle spirited. My heart does ache for them wondering how they will dig themselves out of the hole.

We were on our way to see the Buddist Stupah when we came across a demonstration in the middle of the street. People were angry about the death of a person on the road in one of the outlying communities. So, they decided to protest in front of the police station, demanding compensation from the government. Apparantly this happens often. The traffic was at a standstill. For the first time in my life in a long time I felt uncomfortable. I asked Gene to lock his door as I locked my door too. There was this wave of uncertainty. Nothing happened, we turned around and came back to our hotel.

Earlier, we had gone to an ancient city known as Bhaktapur. It has been restored to it's original splendor. The Germans had restored many buildings. The city was clean and orderly. Compared to the rest of Kathmandu, which is in an eternal state of chaos. Seeing how Bhaktapur could be so organized, it made me feel like anything is possible. I am an eternal optimist. In this city we saw potters making beautiful vases and piggy banks. The wheel was unusual. The potter spun it with a large stick, when the desired speed was achieved he plunked his large slab of clay and kept throwing pots from the same mound. The potter in me was happy to see this. They had a gigantic kiln, the heat was achieved by burning straw. I am guessing the clay was low fire. I could go on but I'll stop. After this we did go to a cremation site on a holy river. The stark contrast between what we witnessed on the Ganga and here was heartbreaking. The river is just stagnant water, really polluted. And, yet daily there are cremations adding to the contaminants in the river. We did witness a body being brought forth for the cremation. The family prepared the body and then covered it with a white cloth. Men and women, members of the family of the man who had died were present. Women were not allowed in the past, but that is changing.

Gene too felt that a tough road lies ahead for the citizens of Nepal. He loves to debate the consequences of how religion affects a community. Does it hinder of help? I am still pondering that question! Kathmandu does not have really rich people nor does it have destitute people. They all are trying to survive. They are a kind and gentle people who find themselves sandwiched between two super powers, India and China. With no place else to go to.

I will write more from Bhutan. The government of Bhutan believes in the gross national happiness of it's citizens. I am anxious to see how that experiment is progressing.
More later,
Sunita.

Mount Everest!

This morning we were up again at 5 a.m. Anyone who thinks I can't be up at the most insane hour of the morning, has to rethink their view of me!

Anyway, we had breakfast, myself not too much to eat. Since the night before I had eaten too many spicey pickles and my stomach was leading a revolt. Gene could see I was moving slower and was concerned. I assured him I was feeling fine and to go onto our Everest experience.

We got to the airport by 6:30 only to wait there for two hours. The Napalese are not in a hurry to get you boarded. There were 5 twin engine planes going on the same excursion of the Himalayas. So, they called all five flight numbers at the same time. We all got up and headed towards the gate (yes, only one gate!)I noticed the locals were not linning up, only the foreigners. Most of Europoean decent. We waited and waited. Finally I decided I was going to sit down and people watch.

What I find most interesting about people from the west, they constantly apply their set of values on people of other cultures. All the people who were on board for the Himalay experience were from European countries and the US. I heard no end of complaints about the way these countries are run. Some people were remarking that they will be going to India next and only heavens knows what awaits them there. Well, here are my thoughts on that... go with an open mind. Don't go if you are going to superimpose your set of values on a people you really don't understand. In fact just stay at home and be happy with your illusion of your airports running everything on time. Stay at home if you want the comforts of your country. Stay at home if you are going to criticize the culture. Stay at home if you can't understand why people move at a slower pace. Okay that was my rant for the day!

Finally we boarded a bus, which took us to the plane, Buddha Air. And, then we were off. It only took about 15 minutes before we were looking at the range. The pollution in Nepal is tremendous, though the Himalayan range was visible. I had put in my order for a clear blue sky day. Gene just smiles and nods when I make statements like that. I don't think he believes me when I tell him my powers work in strange ways.

The mountain range is spectacular. Though, both Gene and I felt we needed to have flown over the mountains instead of just in front of them. Gene did say at the end of the flight he was disappointed with the flight. I was happy to have seen the place where the Holy river Ganga finds her origin.

Back on land, we were back at our hotel with the guide waiting to show us around. I decided to stay in the hotel and go back to sleep. Ever since we started this journey, I have been operating with about two hours of sleep a day. Gene went off with the guide and I went to sleep. Hard for me to fall asleep during the day, but I think I was so tired that it took no time for me to be in dreamland.

Gene came back around 3 p.m. and reported he was 'templed out'! He did like the guide who knows his stuff. They ended up walking a lot and he forgot his hat in the car. I always carry his hat and water bottle. The guide told him Kathmandu is a combination of 4-5 communities that have merged together to make the present city

I am feeling a 100% better after all my beauty sleep! This is so my family will not worry about me. I am fine. Tomorrow we will see a Buddhist Stupah, I am looking forward to that.
Until then,
Sunita.

Kathmandu!

Even the name Kathmandu conjures up mystical images. We are in the land of the Himalays. Tomorrow we circle the magical mountains. Gene has been looking forward to this part of the journey, as have I. Tomorrow morning at the crack of dawn, we will board a twin engine plane and witness this awesome range up close and personal.

Both Gene and I expected Kathmandu to be colder and maybe even snow on the ground. But there are tropical trees growing here. We landed to above eighty degree weather. I brought sweaters with me just so I would be prepared! I won't be needing those.

Kathmandu is a mixture of Hindus and Budhists. The people look more Mongolian in their features. They do speak Hindi and Nepalese. The city's air quality is polluted. We could not see the mountains beacuse the smog was so thick. People wear masks over their noses as they walk about in town. One wonders what this city would have looked like thirty years ago, with less pollution. We could barely make the outline of the Himalays. But, tomorrow we will get to see them clearly, so please pray for clear skies.

After we arrived here, we went to our hotel, which is considered to be a historic hotel. Even though it's not old, it's built with salvaged windows and doors from old buildings. The owner of the hotel believed in the preservation of the Nepalese heritage. The name of this hotel is Dwarika's Hotel. There was no sight seeing scheduled for this afternoon, Gene is not one to sit on his laurels. So, off we went to visit local artisans at work. I was able to find small trinkets, I want to give to my two children. Where as, Gene found several handmade scarves for loved ones back home.  Back at our hotel, we were treated to a six course dinner. We sat on the floor, with food served on a low table, Nepalese style. We were supposed to eat a sixteen course dinner, I don't think my stomach or waistline could have handled that!

More tomorrow!
Sunita.

The Holy River.

Yesterday and today, we spent time in Haridwar. This means gateway to God.This is where Hindus come to witness the awesome beauty of the river Ganga. Known in the west as the Ganges. Hindus want their ashes to flow in the waters of the river because she is the river of life. She will carry our soul to the creator. We were up early, to catch the train to Haridwar. We were at the Delhi station by 6a.m. We had two first class seats. The rest of the train is not air conditioned, so it's best to pay extra and travel in comfort. They feed you plenty on this train. We were in Haridwar by noon. On the way we saw farming land. Rice, wheat and other crops were grown. People working in the fields, rather than machines. The interesting thing about the Indian people, they always wear colourful clothing!

I have always wanted to go to Haridwar. When I was ten my parents went to Haridwar, I remember wanting to go with them. Yesterday, I could not but help think of both of them. I wondered if I am standing on the same spot that my parents stood upon? Both of them were so young when they came here. I remember my mother describing the force of the river. As I gazed upon the river, I understood her awe.

I have always wanted to do a ceremony on behalf of my parents and two brothers, lost to us a long time ago. I asked the priest on the river bank to do a ceremony for them. I cried as the priest bestowed the blessings on the flowers and lighted wick which I placed in the river. As I watched the beautiful blossom boat float away from me, my heart ached. I shed a few more tears. I was so grateful that my dear friend Gerne was with me to give support. He hugged me tight. No words were necessary, I knew he felt my pain and wanted me to know I was not alone.

It was funny to see Gene being the only white person at the evening prayer. There were thousands of people there. He stood out! I had to take a picture of that. After the river ceremony, we ate dinner and talked about the emotional experience. I will still need more time to process all of my feelings.

Today we went to Rishikesh another town on the banks of the river, just a little north of Haridwar. The river is even more pristine if that is at all possible. Here we were actually able to cross the river in a boat. I finally had the opportunity to fill a bottle with the water from the river Ganga. The water was cold, since this is a glacial river. I am mesmerized by this incredible river. The water from this river is my prized possession, it's like liquid gold. I intend to share this holy water with all my family members!

Then it was back to Delhi, the train ride took almost five hours. I am forever grateful for the trip to Haridwar.

We are off to Kathmandu tomorrow. I will write more later. The excellent adventure continues...

Gene and Sunita's excellent adventure!

So, today, Gene and I went to Old Delhi. Gene had been surprised he had not seen poverty in New Delhi. The roadways are well kept, manicured and the traffic is somewhat orderly. Gone are the shacks by the road, that I remember from the brief time I lived in Delhi. The people and the government of India have worked very hard at improving this city. And, to their credit they have achieved success. I am very happy to see what can be accomplished with perseverence.

Old Delhi is another story, it does have the chaos and squaler most people identify with India. I don't understand how one part of the city can be so organized and yet cross over to the other side and it's mayhem? Perhaps the lifestyle is too ingrained by now and the problem is too large to tackle and it seems most of the people who live in Old Delhi have accepted, or at least have learnt to live with their set of circumstances.

After Old Delhi, we saw the historic Red Fort built out of red sand stone. A structure built by Shah Jahan, the same king who built the Taj Mahal.

After Red Fort we went to see the place where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated. Indira Gandhi was also cremated in the same area. The site is calm and serene. We took our shoes off and walked to the cremation site. Removing shoes is showing respect. Hindus remove their shoes when entering a place of worship also. It was hard to see the sadness of the history of Gandhi's death.
This was a busy and somber day. I think I am ready for some lighthearted diversion, so off I go to do some serious shopping!

More later!
Sunita.

In India finally...

It seems like it takes forever to get here, perhaps it has more to do with being anxious to get here. To be able to see all that I have missed for so long. We landed in Delhi at 3 a.m. I was pleasantly surprised by the roadways so well kept. Large new hiways being built along with a metro system which is going to connect the heart of the city to the airport. Such progress in such a short amount of time. I have seen very few cows on the roads. I was expecting so many just meandering along, but those days are gone, so our guide told us. The government stepped in and made sure the problem of the wandering cow will be gone. Progress!

This morning March 2nd. I woke up after having slept for only two hours, we saw Qutab Minar the first monument made by the Muslims in India. It was hard to see that the monument stands in place of many temples that were destroyed. The out laying buildings are made from the stones recovered from the temples. Doubly hard to witness was the Hindu deitieis faces disfigured, arms, legs broken off and the stones used to build Muslim buildings--these are the spoils of war. I said a quiet prayer as I stood by the image of Ganeshji, he is the God who will remove any hinderances out of your way.

After Qutab Minar we saw the President's palace, it was impressive. Much larger than the White House in D.C. More enjoyable was that the British built that in 1937, only to leave it in 1947, so our guide told us. I had a smile on my face as I heard that!

Already the sounds and flavor of India is hard to ignore. So many people walking around.  After the wide open spaces of Oklahoma, visually New Delhi with it's busy street life is hard to adjust to.  So many cars on the roads. I have no idea how anyone finds any street here. Since none of the roadways are marked. I do love to drive, but I think I have met my match in India. No way would I drive here! Everyone has their own way of driving and somehow it all works.  

At the end of our day, we were treated to a home cooked meal by a chef. She prepared everything in front of us. Giving us a lesson in the benefits of all the Indian spices used. I was glad to know that when I teach, I am giving out the same information as hers. My momma taught me well! Thanks Mum!

I would like to write more, though, I think I need sleep right now.  It is good to be in India. I will bid goodnight and give my next account soon.

Until then,
Sunita.